Tue 16 Oct 2007
Somewhat of a departure from the usual business stuff I post(though certainly not less crazy), this article _may_ appeal totravel markets and possibly dogs, humour or both …Wanderings of the mind in northern Tenerifeby Pamela HeywoodYou know, sometimes I wonder, when I have nothing better to do,what people are going to think in thousands of years. Did ourancestors have this problem thousands of years before? And how dowe know that the experts who have written our history books,came to the right conclusions about our past?Ive only lived on the wet and windy ridges above the outskirtsof the village of El Palmar in northern Tenerife for 18 monthsand seen parts of it while covered by the thronging masses, thehot-dog and pepito stalls at fiesta time before, until today.Me and the hound thats joined at my hip, my ever-present fellowexploreress, took a wander around the village after calling in tothe local bar to get cigarettes from the machine. Only becauseId gone out so late that the shop was closed … and you knowwhat people are like when they run out. Yes, its still sociallyacceptable to smoke here and thats one custom, Ill bet, willstill be the case in thousands of years time.We strolled down passageways and streets I didnt know existed.Passed by the tiny white church trying to look imposing up itssteps above the small and currently silent, paved square wherethe fiesta dancing is held. A single lamp in its centre,surrounded by slatted, wooden flowerpots filled with blooming redgeraniums and to one side a tiny, canopied stage for the use ofthe traditional musicians and the all-night Salsa bands.I looked into lighted first floor windows, well you cant help it,to see upper floors with open roof spaces, wooden beams andrafters exposed. One derelict house on the side of the village,with various sets of double wooden doors both to the ground andthe top floor. The latter shielded with rusting metal balustradesand from where you can imagine the ladies of the house lookingout or hanging their bed linen to air in previous times.Nestling in amongst the little old houses, built of roughvolcanic stone and mud and covered, in more recent times, withwhite-painted plaster, wood decayed from centuries of weather andage, is the modern health centre. I knew that was there becauseit is at the side of the main road. From the main road youdthink that the village consisted only of a few modern buildingsand one or two of intermediate age and pass it by, willingly.She who must be obeyed led, well it was more like dragged, medown a dark alley at the side of the medical centre, behind whichwe discovered a small courtyard area that has been landscaped.Because the street behind that is a good four feet higher, theyhad to do something with the drop in level and have made terracesof concrete blocks that look something akin to the seating in aroman amphitheatre. There is no question of them being used forseating, other than by the scant few bored or courting teenagersleft in these parts, but I am sure that if you saw them inthousands of years, youd come to that conclusion.In the intervening space between the building and this bank, is apit, some 5 yards long and a couple wide, rounded at one end andsquare at the other. It looks like it should be a long, shallowornamental pond, except that in place of water, it has beenfilled with fine black, volcanic shingle and one large rockplaced not quite artistically in the centre. It is kind of Zen instyle, but here it is more likely to be imitating the designs ofLanzarotes most famous son, the late Caesar Manrique.As we walked on a surprisingly warm and calm November eveningafter a day of rain, storms and without power, only 7 p.m. andalready almost the entire village was sleeping - bar a smallgroup of gossipers and a couple of stray dogs outside thecommunity centre on the corner by the main road - I couldnt helpbut begin my wondering process.Cant you just see the experts gathering around the archaeologicaldig centuries into the future? Finding evidence of some ancientmedical practice nearby and concluding, unanimously, that thispit must have been used for some ritual disembowelling ceremony,the village elders taking ring-side seats on the terraced bankalongside …Well, I am here to leave a record of the truth for our futuregenerations. With nothing to disturb her peace other than theever…
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